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Pause for Paws » Pet Behaviour http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk Entertaining and educating pet lovers Sun, 04 Oct 2015 23:46:01 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.0.20 Is Your Dog Ever A Pain In The Neck? http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/04/30/is-your-dog-ever-a-pain-in-the-neck/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/04/30/is-your-dog-ever-a-pain-in-the-neck/#comments Sun, 30 Apr 2006 21:09:49 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/04/30/is-your-dog-ever-a-pain-in-the-neck/

I think we’ve all had moments where our dog will want our attention and seemingly not leave us alone til it get’s it. Our Border Collie “Ollie” can be very needy at times. Adam Katz shows three ways to use these situations to your advantage.

Do you ever experience those moments when your dog is a proverbial, “Pain in the neck”?

Maybe you’re sitting at your desk, and your dog won’t stop shoving his head into your lap… demanding attention?

Or maybe she’s just restless for whatever reason. Or feeling needy?

Well, there’s really three things you can do:

#1: You can put the dog in the kennel/crate. Just because your dog is demanding attention, doesn’t mean that he’s always going to get it. Remember: You’re the Alpha dog. You’re the pack leader. If you let your dog decide when to play, you’re communicating an important lesson: That you’re NOT the pack leader, and you DON’T make the decisions. I recommend putting the dog in the crate when you’re sure that your dog has already been exercised, played with, and given attention. In other words: When you know his demand for attention is a dominance ruse.

#2: Put the dog into a formal “down-stay.” Even though your dog won’t be actively doing something, he will be inactively concentrating (and becoming conditioned) to hold the “down-stay” for longer and longer periods of time. How long can you expect your dog to hold a “down-stay” exercise for, while you’re in the same room? How about 2-3 hours! Don’t believe me? I have a drawer full of testimonials from readers of my books and dvds who regularly have their dogs hold the “down-stay” while they watch t.v., drink coffee, wash the dishes, work on the computer, etc…

#3: Even better than #1 and #2, you can use your dog’s restless mood to practice active obedience exercises. Channel her need for attention into something positive. You’d be surprised at how just 10 minutes of working your dog through the various obedience routines (sit, down, heel, come, stay) can “wear your dog out,” mentally. Then, finish up with a good 20 minute (or more!) “down-stay” exercise while you’re going about your household chores.

That’s all for now, folks!

About The Author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider’s Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History.” Get a free copy of his report “Games To Play With Your Dog” when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine
at: http://www.dogproblems.com

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Why does my dog eat it’s own feces http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/02/28/why-does-my-dog-eat-its-own-feces/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/02/28/why-does-my-dog-eat-its-own-feces/#comments Tue, 28 Feb 2006 23:36:20 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/?p=88 It’s very disturbing and quite disgusting when you find that your puppy has been eating it’s own poo. Especially when you’re in the middle of toilet training it, meaning you haven’t got a clue whether he’s been in the right place or not if he’s eaten the evidence!

Some of the reasons come down to typical failure in you the owner in your behavior towards the dog. Have you ever yelled at your dog for crapping in the wrong place? Do you still do it? If so then PACK IT IN! You’re scaring the poor mite and he’s ashamed of his habits, he doesn’t want to get in trouble and generally confused.

Other reasons could include boredom… you are playing with and training your dog, aren’t you? The simple tasks such as sit, stand, lay down, shake hands and all that are easy to do and your dog will enjoy getting his rewards.

There could be other, physical reasons for this behaviour such as digestive problems (he’s not getting the nutrition he needs on the first pass though), perhaps he’s got worms or other parasites, and maybe these conditions are causing him to feel hungry when he isn’t.

How can you prevent this? Well, if you suspect the reason to be medical then you should get your dog checked out by a professional. Maybe you need to re-evaluation what he eats – they grow quick, and maybe need more since you last weighed him.

You can get products that make the poo taste foul to the dog (hard to imagine that it doesn’t already!) but I’m not sure that I’m comfortable with something that may be poisoning him – especially if he’s acting out of fear.

If necessary you need to reinstate his toilet training, really praising him when he gets it right – and NOT punishing him or even sounding angry when he gets it wrong.

Remember, it’s not his fault, it’s yours. And it can be fixed.

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Paper Training A Puppy Without Ruining Your Floor, Staining Your Carpet, And Pulling Out Your Hair! http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/02/18/paper-training-a-puppy-without-ruining-your-floor-staining-your-carpet-and-pulling-out-your-hair/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/02/18/paper-training-a-puppy-without-ruining-your-floor-staining-your-carpet-and-pulling-out-your-hair/#comments Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:24:38 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2006/02/18/paper-training-a-puppy-without-ruining-your-floor-staining-your-carpet-and-pulling-out-your-hair/

We’ve just got another bundle of fur in our homes called Blue, he’s an Australian Shepherd, you can read more about him on the “our dogs” site. Being very young he is just being toilet trained right now and he’s actually very good at it. This following article covers the subject for Chihuahua puppy owners, but is applicable for all new dogs really. It breaks it down ito the following parts:

1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy’s feeding and watering dishes.
2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.
3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.
4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.
5. Don’t go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.
6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.
7. You must be consistent.
8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.
9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say “papers!”

You’ve just adopted the cutest, tiniest teacup Chihuahua puppy! You’ve brought him home and got him accustomed to his surroundings.

And now it’s “housetraining a new puppy” time!

Uh, oh! But, there’s one small problem. You’ve got to keep your puppy inside or that big ol’ dog next door will eat him for breakfast! Or perhaps you live in an area, such as a city, house, or apartment where there is no access to a yard or fenced-in area?

Obviously, your cute teacup puppy can’t use the litter box with the cat!

Now you’re sweating at the thought of urine stains on your beautiful Persian carpet or a pile of poop on your expensive exotic hardwood flooring! You can relax, because there is a solution!

House training a new puppy can easily be done inside by paper training!

Here are some basic guidelines for paper training a puppy:

1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy’s feeding and watering dishes.
After your puppy eats and drinks, take him to the papers. Also take your puppy to the papers, to urinate and defecate, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. He must also be taken to the papers after he chews, plays hard, and comes out of his crate.

2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.

Under the fresh papers, put a lightly soiled one. Your puppy will be encouraged to go to the bathroom by the scent left on the soiled paper.

3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.
If you fail to do so, your puppy will smell his scent on the floor and start sniffing around the edge of the paper. That’s a no, no! You want to keep your puppy ON the paper and using an odor neutralizer will keep him focused on using the bathroom on the paper!

4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.

Please! Just startle him. Don’t scare the poor thing half to death! This will distract your puppy and stop him from urinating. Pick him up and take him to the paper where you want him to go. Lavishly praise your puppy when he finishes going to the bathroom!

5. Don’t go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.
Don’t punish him by spanking, yelling, or rubbing his nose in the mess! Remember, your puppy is just a baby. He made a mistake; he did not commit the crime of the century!

6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.
Urine contains ammonia and that lovely familiar scent will invite your puppy to urinate again on that very same spot! If you are concerned about permanent odor or staining, putting plastic or waxed paper underneath the papers will help preserve your carpet or flooring.

7. You must be consistent.
Put your puppy on a schedule. If you alter the schedule or let your puppy do something differently one day and not the next, he will get confused!

8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.
Never, ever leave an untrained puppy alone in your house! Doing so is just asking for trouble!

9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say “papers!”
Then, carry him back to the papers. This will train your puppy to go to the papers when he has the desire to go to the bathroom!

Paper training a puppy requires a great deal of consistency, a little common sense, and meticulous attention to clean up. With a little effort and patience, your puppy will eventually understand what you want him to do. In time, going to the bathroom on the papers will become second nature to him.

And you will have survived paper training a puppy!

About The Author:
For a free dog training guide containing more dog and puppy training tips, visit: http://freedogtrainingguide.com/

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Preventing your dog from chasing cars. http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/12/04/preventing-your-dog-from-chasing-cars/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/12/04/preventing-your-dog-from-chasing-cars/#comments Sun, 04 Dec 2005 15:27:01 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/12/04/preventing-your-dog-from-chasing-cars/

Ollie is becomming quite a car hunter. I’m not sure if he’s afraid of cars, if he wants to eat the car or if his herding insticts are coming through and he hates something moving at speed that he can’t control. Either way, when out on the lead he’ll follow the car as best he can on the lead. This following article is Brian T, a blogger, and tells how he used bitter apple spray to convince his dog that it shouldn’t be chasing cars. An interesting technique. Although until I’m sure whether or not he’s chasing from fear or wants, I’ll have to think about it.

The Story of My Dog and Why You Should Care

It all began when I was 11 years old. That day, my mom was taking us (the kids) to Arnold’s Hey and Grain, a food store for animals. As we were approaching the door, something caught my eye: a little dog (4 months old). The puppy was situated in a cage and was lying down on his tubby little belly. He looked at me with BIG, HUGE, BUG-eyes and whimpered. He looked so sad…so lonely…so isolated. I got down on my hands and knees and said to him, “Hey there, little puppy. You sure look lonely.” Then the dog looked me straight in the eyes and said, “Well duh. I’m stuck in this freakin’ cage sleeping in my own business and eating nasty doggy kibble. How about getting me outa here, you mental midget?” I replied with, “Sure thing, dude. I’ll buy you or something like that.” He rolled his bug eyes at me and stated, “You humans are all the same…” I smirked. Well, a few minutes after my encounter, my mom walked out of the store with the rest of the brats. She noticed I was looking at the dog and commented about how cute he was. Then I remembered how much I wanted a dog and asked her if I could buy this one (as if I bought a puppy every day). To my astonishment, she said, “Maybe.” YESSSS!!!!! She looked in to the matter a little more and she decided to ask my dad whether or not we could get a dog. Again to my astonishment, he said, “Maybe.” Before I could purchase my furry friend, he made me promise him that I would feed him, brush him, walk him, burp him, change his diaper etc…. Of course I agreed not realizing the mess I got my self into. “Yeah whatever.” I said, “I’ll feed him, brush him, walk him, burp him, and change his diaper etc…” So, we bought the little punk. It would take a day before we could actually pick him up. When that day came, I was more then ready to feed him, brush him, walk him, burp him, and change his diapers! When we got him to the car, he completely freaked out (I guess he was never in a car before). He jumped over the seats, he ran between our legs, he barked at oncoming cars, he screamed, he shouted, and he used words I would never use on this blog. When I asked him why he executed such juvenile behavior, he replied with, “Because I’m a dog, stupid. Plus I was told it’s great therapy – you should try it some time.” I shrugged and told him I had given that practice up a week ago. It was really difficult to find a name for this dog, so I went through the lists of names common to a dog. “Zip, Butch, Rover, Cretan?” I thought to myself. All those names seemed too….stupid. So I named him “Richard.” He loved it.

As the months went by, he seemed to grow larger, more intelligent, but he never did lose his puppy-like features. Taking him on walks was moderately easy, except for one thing: Once he saw a person or location he wished to approach, he would tug and pull and coke himself until he would almost pass out. Once the animal rights people noticed this, they stated that this was total animal abuse and demanded they take possession of my dog – at least until they could find a suitable owner. Of course I told them I would do nothing of the sort. They did not like my little reply so we got in a gunfight and I won. He he, those losers… One month before he turned 1, he mysteriously developed the bad habit of chasing cars (an activity that is commonly executed by dogs). After a few weeks of having my arm pulled off, my mom and I decided that we needed to take some serious action. But before we started beating the living waste out of Richard, I decided I needed to have a little “Boy-to-Dog” discussion.

“Richard, we need to discuss something…” I said.

“Make it quick, stooge. I have a tight schedule today.” He replied.

“Richard, you’ve gotta stop chasing after cars, you’re really hurting my arms.” I said.

“You’ll survive, Brian.” He replied.

“Not for long!! What do you suggest I do? I can’t seem to train you to not chase vehicles.” I said.

” Hey, I know: when you see a car coming, let me go.” He replied.

“That’s it, smart-butt, time to get aggressive with you!!!” I said

I bought a can of Bitter Apple, A spray that comes in a bottle and is affective against disobedient k9s. On our next walk, I took the can. This is how it went:

“Oh boy!!!” he said, “A car!!”

“Leave it, mutt!” I said.

“No.” he said.

“Yes.” I said.

“Die.” He said.

“That’s it!!! Take this!!!” I said as I sprayed the substance in his mouth.

“AAAAHHHGGGGGGG” he said, “I’m melting!!!!!”

“No you’re not.” I said.

“That stuff is N-A-S-T-Y! OK, I’ll follow your unreasonable demands.” He said.

“Good.” I said.

(We don’t believe in shouting, or yelling, so we use “said,” instead of “yelled” or “shouted.”)

After a few more sprays and “discussions,” Richard stopped chasing. I was obviously glad and so was he. Although Richard has his difficulties, he has a lot more “good stuff” about him.

the “good stuff”

Richard is extremely intelligent when it comes to learning new tricks. I taught him how to shake my hand in about 6 minutes. I also taught him how to catch food in mid-air in about 9 minutes. He’s a very fast learner. He is also learning to stay in the front yard without darting after cats and other such mobile things. Although he is currently 2, he still looks and acts like a puppy. Not only is he cute, he is also a great guard dog (just take my word for it). Oh yeah, did I mention he can talk?

Well, I think you have a good idea what my dog is like, so remember: Before you go around ranting about how cool your dog is, just think about how much cooler my dog is.

Thank you and good night
About the Author

Brian T. is a conservative teen out to save the world from stupidity. He has authored many blogs and websites. His current blog is bloghogger.blogspot.com – a blog devoted to bashing liberalism.

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How to Recognize & Respond to Dog Aggression http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/11/how-to-recognize-respond-to-dog-aggression/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/11/how-to-recognize-respond-to-dog-aggression/#comments Fri, 11 Nov 2005 12:30:27 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/11/how-to-recognize-respond-to-dog-aggression/

In researching the posting called Why does my puppy / dog bite? I discovered there are many reasons that your dog may physically attack you. This article here by Julie Butts discusses seven basic types of dog aggression and how you should react in each situation, she makes the very bold statement “many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?”

The purpose of this article is not a how-to on correcting the behavior of an aggressive dog. That task is better left to dog trainers, veterinarians, and dog behaviorists. This article identifies seven basic types of dog aggression, however, and offers suggestions on how to communicate better with an aggressive dog to prevent injury from dog attacks.

Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?

Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child’s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.

Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog’s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:



Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.

The dog with the highest social order is called the alpha dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.

Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.

The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.

Here is a less obvious challenge to an owner’s dominance in the pack:

You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.

Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.

Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.

Gently cup your hand over your dog’s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You will see the behavior right away.

Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.

Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.

Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog’s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.

A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.

You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.

Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.

Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!

Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.

Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.

Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.

Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack’s territory. The dog’s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!

When a dog is in a new environment, he may be “territorial” because he is not sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be “cage aggressive.” The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.

When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.

Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.

A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.

Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.

This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?

Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or making sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.

Author Info:

About the Author: Julie Butts is a Kennel Manager and author of http://www.all-about-small-breed-dogs.com, an online guide for selecting, owning, and raising a small breed dog. Her website is dedicated to small breed dog lovers and includes information on breeds, training, behavior, grooming, supplies, books, gifts, and more.

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Why does my puppy / dog bite? http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/07/why-does-my-puppy-dog-bite/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/07/why-does-my-puppy-dog-bite/#comments Mon, 07 Nov 2005 18:21:27 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/?p=66 It can be frustrating and upsetting when your cute puppy just seems to want to chew on you. On your hands, arms, legs, clothes and even your face. Before trying to work out how to stop your puppy / dog biting you need to delve into what is causing this behaviour in the first place.

There is a distinct difference in biting between basic puppy “mouthing” and the more serious biting or snapping at you and your family. The EJRTCA website puts it well “First of all, chewing is normal puppy behavior. Watch a mother with her pups and you will see how much of this goes on. This is why breeders should not sell their pups before they reach 8 weeks old, giving the mother a chance to raise the pups with manners, and learn not to bite.” Puppy bite training should be complete with the the first 6 months of a dogs life – so we take over the responsibility of the mother.

The Perfect Paws website lists the three main causes for biting as:

  • Lack of Socialization – when you took the puppy from the litter it’s social skills with other dogs ended there. By mixing with other dogs they can continue the rough and tumble play and continue to discover the boundries of play and pain. By not socialising with dogs and humans your puppy can be fearful and this fear can cause him to lash out.
  • Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting – Just as with humans, there needs to be trust and respect between both parties. Otherwise the other party won’t want to “play nice”.
  • Use of Reprimands – Never EVEN attack your animal in a form of punishment (hitting, kicking, slapping – whatever). This creates both fear and distrust. You need to be consistance and fair. So don’t yell at your dog for soiling the carpet, ESPECIALLY after the event. You took on the puppy, so you should clear up after it calmly.

So in short, the reasons that your puppy will be biting are that it is testing the boundries of what it can get away with, it will be teething and need to chew or worst of all could be fearful of you and the situation that it is in.

Further reading:

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Potty training our new Collie puppy http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/#comments Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:06:41 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/

We let a new bundle of love into our home just yesterday. He’s a Border Collie which we’ve named Ollie or Oliver. We met his parents and they’re both of a lovely temperament, so he should inheirit that too if we treat and train him right. Currently he’s just 9 weeks old, so he isn’t quite toilet trained yet. So today, we’re researching the best ways to do this correctly. Most methods seem to involve looking for signals (Oliver licks his privates when he’s about to go), and then taking him to a prepared area to carry out his business. Eventually he’ll adopt a regular spot and you can work towards that goal. This following article by Tina Spriggs explains this process.

Puppies are a bundle of newfound joy. You’ve prepared the house, and even bought him a new rubber chew toy. However, with all the joy your new pet brings, he also brings along with him his natural behaviors and instincts. It’s now your job to begin training and molding him into the furry companion you’ve always wanted. It’s not quite time for adventure or obedience school. It’s time for potty training!

Just for starters, let’s reiterate what pet experts back 100% of the time: never hit or abuse your puppy in any way. It will have a detrimental affect on his future behavior, his trust in you, and his ability to socialize with other dogs and humans.

With that said, you should not expect your new dog to be fully housetrained until he’s about six months old, especially if you’re not home to oversee his training every hour of every day.

There are a couple of different tried and true options to choose from when house training a puppy. One is commonly referred to as the “passive? option, or the newspaper option. The other option is considered the “active? approach, where you attempt to teach your new puppy when and where to control his bowel movements from the confines of a puppy crate.

The newspaper option is great for those with the necessary floor space, workers and/or apartment dwellers. Start out by designating a puppy room. If you don’t have the space, and you still want to opt this route, create a room. Choose a small area (perhaps a tiled laundry room) and puppy proof it. In other words, don’t allow the puppy access to any cleaners, wires or sharp objects. And, don’t put your puppy into a closet or dark room. Be sure the room has windows (which you can crack open for air movement). Line the floor with newspaper. Put his bed, toys, food and water bowl in the room. At first, he’ll go to the bathroom all over the place. Give the process plenty of time.

Optimistically, no matter where your puppy eliminates, it will be on the newspaper. Over time he’ll slowly choose one spot (most likely based on scent). Then, gradually move the newspapers less and less on the floor until the spot where he usually eliminates is left covered. This process could take a few months. Move the paper inward only an inch or two every couple of days. If your puppy has an accident, remember, it’s your fault. Most likely, you’ve moved the papers too quickly.

Crate training, as stated, is called the “active? approach because you really have to have an open schedule with plenty of patience and fortitude to make it work. Figure that you’re going to have to take your dog out of the crate/cage about every forty-five to fifty minutes each hour of the day when you first begin.

If this is all viable, then make sure that you buy a puppy crate and not a dog cage that will be much to big. Buy a puppy cage for a puppy and later a dog cage when he becomes full-grown. Your dog should have enough space to be comfortable when sleeping, but not enough to have room to defecate in an extra corner.

Every forty-five minutes you should take your puppy outdoors on a leash to walk around and hopefully eliminate. He should do so within ten minutes. When he does go, praise the puppy by petting and saying, “Good boy? or “Good? plus his name. Once inside, allow the puppy to have supervised indoor playtime with a treat or two. If the puppy doesn’t go to the bathroom outdoors, be sure to put him back in his cage and repeat the process a little later. If the puppy jitters around like he has to go to the bathroom, take him back outdoors. Expect accidents until he learns the procedure.

While both procedures take ample time and patience, they will work. The choice is yours. Give the puppy time to become familiar with his routine, you as his owner and his environment. The best thing to do is to richly award his successful attempts and never scold him for accidents.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers.

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How To Choose The Perfect Dog Name For Your Puppy http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/13/how-to-choose-the-perfect-dog-name-for-your-puppy/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/13/how-to-choose-the-perfect-dog-name-for-your-puppy/#comments Tue, 13 Sep 2005 07:50:13 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/13/how-to-choose-the-perfect-dog-name-for-your-puppy/ I’ve chosen the following article for two reasons. Firstly, we’re looking to adopt a new dog at the moment and are thinking about names for the ones that we’re seen down at the Dogs Trust. Also, in the server logs for this site, I see that people have been coming here having searched for advice on how to teach your puppy to respond to his name. Hopefully this will be of some help:

So you’ve brought home your new puppy, it’s time to name your new animal friend but you’re running short on ideas. Choosing a name for your dog can be hard if you aren’t feeling very creative, so here we give you a head start with the basics and some great ideas to help you choose the perfect name for your puppy.

Three Basic Dog Name Guidelines

1. Pick a name your dog can easily recognize. Dogs usually respond better to one or two syllable names. If you do want to go for a dramatic and unusual long name, consider whether you can easily shorten it to something a bit simpler for your dog to understand.

2. Avoid dog names that sound like the standard commands of No, Stay, Sit, Come, Down or Fetch. For example “Joe” is probably too close to “No”. It can be difficult for dogs to tell the difference between similar sounding words.

3. Choose a name that’s both easy to call out and one that you are happy calling out. Remember, you will be calling your dog’s name out in public places at times and shouting out “Parsnip“ in the local park, may leave you feeling a little embarrassed! You also want a name that will work well when you are straining your voice to call your pet as he disappears into the sunset chasing after a rabbit!

Looking For Dog Name Inspiration

Start with the obvious. Take a long hard look at your new little friend he may be telling you his name without you knowing. Look at his appearance, behavior, personality, and disposition. Names like Spot or Red may come to mind. How about Bandit for a dog who steals things or Rebel for a stubborn dog?

Then look elsewhere for inspiration. You can name your dog after another famous dog, for example Pluto, Pongo, Lassie or Digby. What about your favourite sports, movie, music or comic strip star?

How about choosing a dog name after a member of your family or friend of a figure from history like Napoleon, Alexander the Great or Rasputin? Take a look at your environment or think about your favourite place they will give you more ideas.

Remember, the dog name you choose for your puppy says as much about you as it does about your pet. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with him. But other people may judge your dog’s character by reference to its name and might therefore react negatively or fearfully to a ‘dominating’ name when meeting it. It is a good idea to use a dog name that conveys the image you want your pet to have.

Also, pick a name that will grow with the pet. For example “Tiny” may be less appropriate for a full-grown dog.

Whichever method you choose, have a good time doing it and choose a name that you will want to keep.

Teaching Your Puppy Its Name

Pick a dog name that pleases you and stick to it. It can be confusing for your puppy if you keep changing your mind. Your dog will learn his or her new name quickly if you use it often. When you call your pet, use his name. Do not say “here puppy”. Calling your pet by his name will help him to become familiar with it and with your voice as well.

If choosing a long name keep in mind the shortened version. A long name will inevitably be shortened, but it may ruin the effect that you were originally looking for.

Above all have fun and choose a name you really like. Your puppy will undoubtedly become your best friend and only you can find just the right name.

About The Author

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about dog names, puppy care and traning at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/dog_names.html.

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How to Create Your Own Monster — are you Spoiling your Pet? http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/08/how-to-create-your-own-monster-are-you-spoiling-your-pet/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/08/how-to-create-your-own-monster-are-you-spoiling-your-pet/#comments Thu, 08 Sep 2005 15:42:12 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/09/08/how-to-create-your-own-monster-are-you-spoiling-your-pet/ Again, on the theme of the swearing parrots I’ve unearthed this little story. It’s not about parrots at all, but rather the behaviour of pets if you let them get your attention all the time. How you need to let them know who is boss when it comes to giving out love as much as you do when giving discipline.

“You’ve created your own monster, you know”, my mother said ominously. My Rex cat, Houdini, had just burrowed his way inside my sweater for the third time that morning, letting out a squeal of indignation when I tried to resist.

Houdini has separation anxiety. But in his tiny little mind, separation means I’ve been out of his site for at least two minutes. Or I’ve closed the bathroom door and left him on the other side. Or he hasn’t had his ears scratched or his belly rubbed in eons (about ten minutes.) Houdini follows me everywhere, like the most faithful of hounds, and craves my undivided attention almost as much as his next meal.

If all of this seems annoying, it’s not nearly as bad as when the little fellow plunks himself down in front of me and literally tears chunks of his own hair out because I’m not paying attention to him. With Houdini, it’s always been easier just to give in.

My husband takes all of this in stride. My mother, who (fortunately for Houdini) only visits now and then, thinks it’s the height of absurdity.

Growing up under Mom’s roof, I learned that dogs and children should obey, and cats just mind their own business. I adopted my mother’s dog training philosophies successfully. Cleo (a fine-looking mastiff and our now-famous website mascot), is a perfect lady. She’s a wonderful dog with the gift of self composure and not one to question authority. Cleo would never stoop to the kind of antics that are Houdini’s specialty. Besides, she’s too big to crawl inside my sweater.

So why does this particular pet behave like a spoiled child? Why do I give in to him? Is it because I forgot to have children? Mom swears that those little squealing sounds he makes don’t come from a cat. “He’s manipulating you”, she tells me. “He’s learned how to sound like a baby”.

Maybe I’ve got what I like to call “lap dog syndrome”. I’m referring how we treat smaller pets who are easily cuddled and coddled, are highly portable, and who look adorable wearing funny little outfits. Some might call it “empty nest syndrome”.

Consider my Grandmother Rosie and her Toy Poodle, Cocoa.

Cocoa arrived long after Rosie’s children had grown up and left home. Rosie knitted lots of little sweaters and hats for Cocoa to keep him warm and stylish. She kept a mixture of Coke Syrup and Pepto Bismol on hand to settle Cocoa’s nervous stomach. And dog food could never pass his lips, so Grandma cooked fresh chicken for Cocoa every night before sitting down to her own dinner.

We had to spell out “c-o-o-k-i-e” and “P-e-p-t-o B-i-s-m-o-l” around the dog so he wouldn’t get over-excited. And Grandpa Henry was obsessed with keeping Cocoa clean. This was one poodle who never had tear stains under his eyes, and whose little “tushy” was spotless.

Bear in mind that we’re talking about the late 60’s, when treating pets like children wasn’t really “mainstream”.

Today, it’s commonplace. The pet industry is huge, and much of it caters to our desire to spoil our “children”. So these days it’s easier than ever to create your own monster. Besides bending to your dog’s every whim, you can shower her with gourmet treats, dress her to the nines, and offer her a standard of living well above what many of the world’s humans aspire to.

Today, Grandma wouldn’t have to knit any sweaters herself, and there would be plenty of remedies made expressly for Cocoa’s nervous tummy. Grandma wouldn’t board her baby when traveling. Instead, she’d hire a professional pet sitter, or take Cocoa with her to a pet friendly hotel. The hotel might even have a dog gift shop, with lots of squeaky toys and delicious “c-o-o-k-i-e-s”. And Cocoa would go everywhere with Grandma in his own little dog-sized carrying case, probably made from fine imported leather or snakeskin.

I wonder how many owners of large breeds behave this way? Are there other syndromes out there, like “macho dog syndrome” (a guy thing, no doubt)?

The truth is, all pets start out small and cuddly. No one is completely safe from creating their own monster, large or small. So thank goodness there are enough great resources available for anyone to become a virtual dog training expert. (Or cat, or parrot, or horse…)

I’ve learned my lesson with Houdini: It’s much easier to teach your pet the rules from the start. Puppy training is easier than dog training. And un-creating a monster is a heck of a lot tougher than creating one!

But I’m weak. For now, it’s easier just to give in. And besides, it time to rub Houdini’s belly…

About The Author:

© 2005, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and former family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of http://www.great-dog-gift.com. View the html version of this article (with cute photos) at http://www.great-dog-gift.com/monster. The site offers a wide range of choices for dog gift shoppers, plus shopping and gift-giving tips.

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Small Dogs – Different Breeds, Different Personalities http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/08/29/small-dogs-different-breeds-different-personalities/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/08/29/small-dogs-different-breeds-different-personalities/#comments Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:10:26 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/08/29/small-dogs-different-breeds-different-personalities/ We’re thinking about getting a Shih Tzu, perhaps from a place like the Southern Shih Tzu Rescue Centre. In investigating this, I thought I’d share some of the articles we found (with permission, of couse).

Small dog breeds are great pets, but since their personalities are all different, it’s a good idea to look at their individual characteristics to see if they fit with your lifestyle.

Pomeranians developed from a much larger dog breed and seem to have retained the mellow character. They are good with children if they have been raised with them from puppyhood. They are playful and active. They tend to bark and require daily grooming.

Chihuahuas are an interesting small breed. I have raised several herds – and that is a good word for a group of chihuahuas – and their temperment is a bit different from other small dogs. They can be very aggressive towards other dog breeds. I adopted one chihuahua who kept attacking a German Shepherd who finally bit her. After she got out of the hospital she went after him again. I ended up with her because she wasn’t going to quit attacking bigger dogs. Some chihuahuas will growl and nip at small children. Good points – chihuahuas are very loyal and affectionate. They don’t require as much exercise as other small breeds so they make ideal pets for apartment dwellers or older people. They are good with cats.

Boston Terrier:
Good with children and other animals, the Boston terrier is a good small dog for families. They are suitable for any lifestyle. They can be aggressive chewers. Their short coat is easy to keep clean.

Jack Russell Terrier:
This dog breed is only for the most active owners. They love to chase balls, can hop onto a table with ease and can be aggressive if not trained properly. Very intelligent and lively, they require a lot of attention and discipline.

This small dog breed can be very protective of its owner. It is not suitable for families with children because they are very fragile.

Shitzu or Shih tzu:
Good natured and non-aggressive, these friendly little dogs make great family pets. They require daily brushing but their hair is non-shedding. Good with other animals.

Bichon Frise:
These little dogs make good family pets. They are good with children as well as other animals. Very intelligent, easy to train and lively. Their coat doesn’t shred.

Not a hound but a terrier bred to go after vermin, the breed is lively and affectionate. Good with family members but will become aggressive to children outside the family. They make good watchdogs and will bark frequently to alert their owners.

Very fierce and loyal, these little dogs are not good around children or other animals. These are good dogs for the elderly. Their coats require a good deal of grooming.

Skye Terrier:
Great with children, okay with other dogs but not tolerant of cats. This unique breed makes a fine pet. Distrustful of strangers.

The next step after selecting a breed is to find a reputable breeder. To get more information, visit us at www.dog-match.com/small-dog-breeds

About the Author

Pat Schraier has not only owned chihuahuas but a cocker spaniel, a dachshund,a black lab,a boxer and a terrier mix. Visit the website www.dog-match.com for breed information, health care and other resources.

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