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Pause for Paws » Ollie http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk Entertaining and educating pet lovers Sun, 04 Oct 2015 23:46:01 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.0.20 Border Collie Complete Profile http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/15/border-collie-complete-profile/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/15/border-collie-complete-profile/#comments Tue, 15 Nov 2005 17:15:45 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/11/15/border-collie-complete-profile/

I can’t believe that we’ve had Ollie all this time and I’ve not put up a profile of a Border Collie on this site. This profile of a Collie comes courtesy of Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small – medium Height: 46 – 53 cm (18 – 21 inches)
Weight: 16 – 22 kg (35 – 48 lb)
Life Span: 15 years
Grooming: Medium
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Medium
Temperament: Very alert & trainable
Country of Origin: England
AKC Group: Herding

Temperament: The Border Collie is alert, keen, intelligent, faithful, hard-working and responsive. Border Collies have remarkable stamina and thrive on activity and working situations, rather than a domestic household environment. They are able to adapt to family life, so long as their need for company and exercise is met. Border Collies demands exercise for their muscles just as much as for their brain. Border Collies are very trainable and get on well with children if socialized from puppyhood. They make great watchdogs and are wary of strangers.

Grooming: Weekly brushing is enough to keep the coat of a Border Collie looking healthy.

Exercise: Physical exercise is not enough for this breed. Border Collies need to work, doing various tasks. Border Collies are represented among the top, in competitive sports such as agility, obedience and sheep dog trials. An idle dog will become very badly behaved and even aggressive.

History: During the 16th century, around the border countries of England, Scotland and Wales, farmers concentrated on developing a top class sheep worker with a natural instinct for keeping their charges together. They succeeded and produced an all round dog excelling in stamina, brains and sensitivity to every gesture made by their master. The Border Collie was once known as the English Shepherd and evolved from smooth coated collies, a longer coated black/white collie and the Bearded Collie. The word ‘collie’ is believed to be a corruption of the words ‘colley’ or ‘coalie’ meaning a black faced sheep.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Agile, intelligent and swift Colour: Black/white, blue/white, chocolate/white or tricolour. Coat: The outercoat is long and dense. The undercoat is short and thick. Tail: Low set, can have an upward swirl but is never carried over the back. Ears: Set well apart, V-shaped with the tips dropping forward. Body: Moderately long back, broad loins, deep flanks and well-angulated fore and hindquarters.

Additional Comments:

Border Collies are fine in a kennel, so long as they have daily activity and spend time with their owner. Border Collies make ideal working dogs and are perfect for anyone wanting to reach high levels in dog sports.
About the Author

This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/border_collie/

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Ollie the Border Collie after just one week. http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/31/ollie-the-border-collie-after-just-one-week/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/31/ollie-the-border-collie-after-just-one-week/#comments Mon, 31 Oct 2005 17:28:43 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/31/ollie-the-border-collie-after-just-one-week/ We decided on Ollie as the name of our Border Collie and he’s a wonderful addition to the family. Training seems to be going well, he sits and lays down when we want him to and staying and fetching is progessing well. His toilet training is either excellent or he goes at random, but we put that down to us ignoring his the signals he gives out (like sitting at the door or licking his privates) or down to being overexcited. The only thing we’ve not curbed is his mouthing, but part of that has to be to do with him teething – so he’s easily pacified with a dog chew.

We’re sure that he’s growing by the minute, he seemed so tiny when we picked him up. But he’s bigger by the day.

Browsing around the net I’ve found some interesting pages, such as the suggestion that Snoopy was a Border Collie and not a Beagle at all. I’ve got to say that even at 10 weeks old I can see what they’re talking about!

Also for those with no taste at all, there’s is the god awful Collie Clock. Damn, that’s in the worst granny taste I’ve seen in a long time! “The Border Collie Clock is sure to be admired by everyone who see’s it”. Apparently.

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Potty training our new Collie puppy http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/ http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/#comments Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:06:41 +0000 http://www.pauseforpaws.co.uk/2005/10/24/potty-training-our-new-collie-puppy/

We let a new bundle of love into our home just yesterday. He’s a Border Collie which we’ve named Ollie or Oliver. We met his parents and they’re both of a lovely temperament, so he should inheirit that too if we treat and train him right. Currently he’s just 9 weeks old, so he isn’t quite toilet trained yet. So today, we’re researching the best ways to do this correctly. Most methods seem to involve looking for signals (Oliver licks his privates when he’s about to go), and then taking him to a prepared area to carry out his business. Eventually he’ll adopt a regular spot and you can work towards that goal. This following article by Tina Spriggs explains this process.

Puppies are a bundle of newfound joy. You’ve prepared the house, and even bought him a new rubber chew toy. However, with all the joy your new pet brings, he also brings along with him his natural behaviors and instincts. It’s now your job to begin training and molding him into the furry companion you’ve always wanted. It’s not quite time for adventure or obedience school. It’s time for potty training!

Just for starters, let’s reiterate what pet experts back 100% of the time: never hit or abuse your puppy in any way. It will have a detrimental affect on his future behavior, his trust in you, and his ability to socialize with other dogs and humans.

With that said, you should not expect your new dog to be fully housetrained until he’s about six months old, especially if you’re not home to oversee his training every hour of every day.

There are a couple of different tried and true options to choose from when house training a puppy. One is commonly referred to as the “passive? option, or the newspaper option. The other option is considered the “active? approach, where you attempt to teach your new puppy when and where to control his bowel movements from the confines of a puppy crate.

The newspaper option is great for those with the necessary floor space, workers and/or apartment dwellers. Start out by designating a puppy room. If you don’t have the space, and you still want to opt this route, create a room. Choose a small area (perhaps a tiled laundry room) and puppy proof it. In other words, don’t allow the puppy access to any cleaners, wires or sharp objects. And, don’t put your puppy into a closet or dark room. Be sure the room has windows (which you can crack open for air movement). Line the floor with newspaper. Put his bed, toys, food and water bowl in the room. At first, he’ll go to the bathroom all over the place. Give the process plenty of time.

Optimistically, no matter where your puppy eliminates, it will be on the newspaper. Over time he’ll slowly choose one spot (most likely based on scent). Then, gradually move the newspapers less and less on the floor until the spot where he usually eliminates is left covered. This process could take a few months. Move the paper inward only an inch or two every couple of days. If your puppy has an accident, remember, it’s your fault. Most likely, you’ve moved the papers too quickly.

Crate training, as stated, is called the “active? approach because you really have to have an open schedule with plenty of patience and fortitude to make it work. Figure that you’re going to have to take your dog out of the crate/cage about every forty-five to fifty minutes each hour of the day when you first begin.

If this is all viable, then make sure that you buy a puppy crate and not a dog cage that will be much to big. Buy a puppy cage for a puppy and later a dog cage when he becomes full-grown. Your dog should have enough space to be comfortable when sleeping, but not enough to have room to defecate in an extra corner.

Every forty-five minutes you should take your puppy outdoors on a leash to walk around and hopefully eliminate. He should do so within ten minutes. When he does go, praise the puppy by petting and saying, “Good boy? or “Good? plus his name. Once inside, allow the puppy to have supervised indoor playtime with a treat or two. If the puppy doesn’t go to the bathroom outdoors, be sure to put him back in his cage and repeat the process a little later. If the puppy jitters around like he has to go to the bathroom, take him back outdoors. Expect accidents until he learns the procedure.

While both procedures take ample time and patience, they will work. The choice is yours. Give the puppy time to become familiar with his routine, you as his owner and his environment. The best thing to do is to richly award his successful attempts and never scold him for accidents.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers.

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